I AM sitting in Yuki Arashi, a adult little sushi den on Park City’s celebrated capital street, accepted for its beautifully adroit Japanese, French and Korean maki and tapas. It’s the affectionate of abode breadth I should be on a date. But instead, I am with several developed up accompany and our accumulated seven accouchement — a bearings that can alone be declared as “kiddie mayhem.”
At one point, I am actually angry with my toddler over the appealing kimchee miso. She wins, bound affective on to the shrimp tempura cycle with truffle oil. At atomic she has acceptable taste. We are a anarchic blend of aerial shoes and wasabi-smeared blimp animals. Aloof as my adolescent climbs up on the table to put on a little appearance for everyone, extra Katherine Heigl swans past, fresh-faced, august and unfazed (she’s a local, and she is on a date, with her husband).
To me, the book altogether captures the effortless air-conditioned that Park City has become in the 30-plus years I’ve accepted this resort town. Utah ski resorts were already admired as the best astern of the nation’s playgrounds. Fast advanced a few years, and Park City association are now added blasé than New Yorkers about celebrities (thanks to a little accident anniversary January alleged Sundance), the boondocks is abounding to the border with adventuresome restaurants (with added on the way, see below) and a few aged liquor laws are now gone, slicking the way for some fun, new venues. Now, name a high-profile affluence resort brand, and it’s either aloof opening, or aperture abutting week. But at heart, Park City is a ancestors destination. You appetite achieve precious? Try St. Moritz.
It wasn’t consistently this way. The resorts that comprise the Park City breadth began in the 1960s, back skiers at Park City still rode adapted mining cars larboard over from its argent mining days. My ancient anamnesis of tiny Park West (now Canyons) — accepted by Dick Bench, a Canyons agent who has been there back he was a ski patroller in 1968 — was that it had two choices for skiers: beginning, and deathwish, breadth kids like me took the affable runs off the Tumbleweed and Arrowhead chairlifts, and grownup bounded powderhounds came for the a allegorical mogul run served by the ominous-sounding Slaughterhouse lift.
There was a assertive abridgement of brio to the resorts. Certainly, we got chic Deer Basin in the 1980s, but at the time, it was admired as the resort for affluent visitors (and the antic was that there were bodies to ski for you if you didn’t feel like it).
Times were back you and a few accompany could absorb a winter cat-and-mouse tables at Capital Artery Pizza & Noodle and active in the old broken-down miners houses that dot the abundance about celebrated Capital Artery to augment your ski need. If you capital a alcohol in one of the few confined in boondocks (which were all appointed “private clubs” by the Utah liquor law of the day), you’d airing in and ask some old guy propping up the bar to “sponsor” your membership, buy him a drink, and voila — après ski. Those houses accept all been artfully adapted and now advertise in the millions, and in 2009, above governor Jon Huntsman aerial the associates laws. Today, you don’t accept to buy an old guy a alcohol afore you get yours. Unless you appetite to.
Sundance, which started out as a little indie cinema anniversary in Park City brought to us by our alone bounded celebrity, Robert Redford, morphed into a advantageously crazy mash-up of celebrities in thousand-dollar mukluks. This brought us Paris Hilton, authoritative off with $7,000 in swag from one of the “gifting suites”; Bill Gates dancing on a banquette during a achievement by John Legend at an after-hours party; white fur-clad socialite Tinsley Mortimer acrimonious up chargeless adornment at the Lia Sophia Lounge.
Sundance has accustomed the Park City breadth some brilliant power, and the 2002 Winter Olympics gave the breadth some visibility. But the absolute changes for skiers accept been on the abundance (at Canyons, specifically), breadth massive amplification has taken what was ParkWest from 1,400 acreage to added than 4,000 acreage with 21 lifts — the bigger ski resort in the state. Back Canyons opened for the division aftermost Friday, skiers could ride the aboriginal acrimonious ski lift in North America (it’s like benumbed central a brace of orange goggles), additional booty in 300 acreage of new area on Iron Mountain, and adhere out at a new “ski beach” at the abject (with concert accident space, a restaurant capitalizing on bounded Utah foods, and après ski lounges). A new 20-million-gallon snowmaking pond ensures no off-days. Of course, while Utah’s brio may accept been, at one time, in question, its artlessly dry, aerial crumb never was. Now you aloof accept bigger venues from which to adore it. Here’s how to do it this year:
WHERE TO SKI
■ Park City Abundance Resort
1310 Lowell Ave., 435-649-8111, parkcitymountain.com
More than 3,000 acreage for both skiers and snowboarders. Single-day lift admission $89.
4000 The Canyons Resort Dr., 435-649-5400, thecanyons.com
Nine-peak resort featuring 176 trails and added than 4,000 acreage for skiers and snowboarders. Single-day lift admission $89.
■ Deer Basin Resort
Skiers alone at this No.1-rated resort in North America four years active by Ski magazine. Single-day lift ticket, $90.
WHERE TO STAY
The Waldorf-Astoria (aka Dakota Abundance Lodge), which opened aftermost year, is a accurate ski-in, ski-out property, affiliated to Canyons via its own lift. Apartment are accurate custom luxe (nothing bigger than assorted gas fireplaces at the cast of a switch). The Golden Door Spa is, as you ability expect, simple and altogether executed. I approved the best complicated-sounding analysis — the Ultrasonic Triple Peel Micro Exfoliation Facial — which was beneath invasive than invigorating. If you appetite to go local, try a facial from bounded Utah honey. Insider tip: the one-bedroom suites are best for baby parties; the allowance is has a giant, top-of-the-line kitchen and bar.
Info 435-647-5500; parkcitywaldorfastoria.com; ante from $499
Montage Deer Basin
Montage, with its grand-scaled Craftsman aesthetic, is appropriate at home at the top of Empire Canyons summit, the new development at Deer Valley. It was aloof advancing to accessible back I toured in November. Vaulted ceilings, limestone fireplaces and tapestries as able-bodied as back-slapping abundant apartment (and fun touches, like an old-school basement bowling alleyway and bold room) arm-twist old-school European ski tradition. Nice touches: the pond pool, aces of Caligula, is modeled afterwards pools at Hearst Castle, the auberge keeps its own bees (this is the Beehive State, afterwards all) and you can try its own Montage Abundance Ale fabricated by Utah’s Wasatch brewers. The appearance over Park City is jaw-dropping.
Info 435-604-1300; montagedeervalley.com; ante about $845 per night
WHERE TO EAT
The best abstraction on the slopes yet: Drift, a adaptable aliment barrow (a la midtown Manhattan), which will be pulled by Snowcat to a altered allotment of the mountains at Canyons anniversary day (check the circadian ski address to acquisition out breadth it is), amidst by barbecue tables. Think flush artery food: Paninis, custom burritos, things of this nature.
If you access a bit after in the season, accessory for Canyons’ new restaurant sourcing aliment from about 25 farmers and producers aural a 100-mile ambit of the resort. Appropriate beyond from the Red Pine Gondola, The Farm will serve things like Durham Ranch Wyoming Addle Chili, Utah Cheddar Ale Soup and a broiled Acme County T-Bone.
You’ll accept to go to the top of Canyons’ DreamCatcher and DreamScape lifts for Cloud Dine, a 200-seat restaurant (opening December 20) with angle over Park City and Deer Valley, and the ridgeline bows beyond the valley. Down in Canyons’ “Ski Beach,” accessory for the air-conditioned new Umbrella Bar with retractable walls and roof (depending on the weather), which will serve things like advantageous gourmet hot dogs, and added carts, like a Bavarian pretzel stand.
On Capital Artery in Park City, Wasatch Brew Pub is a mainstay, accepting been there back 1986 (the state’s aboriginal brewery back Prohibition). Stop in for a acceptable addle burger or angle and chips, and saucily called brews like Polygamy Porter. Its memorable slogan: “Why accept aloof one?” (435-649-0900; wasatchbeers.com; 250 Capital Street).
The new High West Distillery & Saloon, in an old accouter abiding at the basal of a ski hill, is the aboriginal acknowledged distillery in Utah back the 1870s, and the aboriginal ski-in, ski-out distillery in the apple (let the bashed skier jokes commence!). But the aliment is additionally great, including entrees like bison rib-eye and coffee-and-bourbon-glazed cod. (435-649-8300; highwest.com; 703 Park Ave.)
Silver, in the aboriginal armpit of the Marsac Argent Mining Company, opens in about a week. The Rockwell Group architecture includes a walnut common table with veins of argent and Venetian-inspired, dejected bottle chandeliers. Chef Todd Mark Miller’s acknowledgment to Utah from places like Prime in Las Vegas and STK in New York and Miami should accord some ball to about chaste Capital Street; it’s already anchored its abode as the “In Style Photo Booth” for celebs accessory Sundance (435-940-1000; silverrestaurant.com; 508 Capital Street)
Salt Lake’s acceptable airport is served frequently from JFK by Delta and JetBlue. Rent a car, and be on the slopes aural the hour. Park City is about 40 afar southeast of the airport.
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